If you’re a surfer and you appreciate strong writing, this book is well worth your time.
1. After all, it’s not head-high and glassy every day. published 2011, avg rating 3.90 — Realistic Romance Surfing Comedy Drama Young Adult ... New Adult Cute Funny Surfer Boyxgirl Summer Read Ever since the death of her favorite instructor, eighteen year old Bryna Freling has taken a hiatus from surfing and now goes to work at her father’s beach shop. That’s all. If you haven’t listened to his How I Built This Podcast, you should. If you want to read books about surfing, start here.
Sure, plenty of people do that. Also not a surf story.
published 2010, avg rating 4.09 — 57 ratings — Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. 18,847 ratings — Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan. I just recall seeing another surfer way down the beach, and then it was all over and I was out, and safe, going wow, wow, that was a gift from nature.”, “But surfing always had this horizon, this fear line, that made it different from other things, certainly from other sports I knew. 739 ratings — 1,580 ratings — ‘Nuff said, right? It was also a National Book Award Finalist.
In Surf Is Where You Find It, Lopez waxes poetic in 38 stories about the lessons he’s learned from a lifetime in the ocean. Obviously. updated Mar 24, 2020 02:43AM — published 2014, avg rating 4.46 — 12,359 ratings — All over the globe and throughout every step of recorded history, man has woven his foundation of survival as well as spirituality with the sea. Not a surf story. published 2013, avg rating 3.61 — All over the globe and throughout every step of recorded history, man has woven his foundation of survival as well as spirituality with the sea.
504 ratings — Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard. published 2014, avg rating 3.84 — published 2003, 1 chapters — published 1984, avg rating 3.77 —
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Buy Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening here. 3. Bear in mind, you have to really care about surf history to enjoy this book. At least it wasn’t intended to be a book about/for surfing, so about the only relation it has to anything surf was that its author is Brazilian. Contrary to the title, West of Jesus isn’t about Jesus. In fact, that’s rarely the case. If you’ve created and/or are raising a child, this book illustrated by Ben Weiland and written by North Carolina pro surfer Jesse Hines and his wife, Whitney, is a must-own. published 2010, avg rating 3.95 — Not in a cheesy way. It’s not really about spirituality or religion either, but it really is at the same time.
1,776 ratings — published 2001, avg rating 3.99 — Steven Kotler covers all the bases of belief as it relates to our connection with the ocean.
This is the slice of Americana that inspires a reader to pick up and make meaning of adventures. 46 ratings —
It’s not fictional tales with pleasurable plotlines. Because they do, and they, their ice cream shop, and their book are all adorable and awesome. Surf books are an essential ingredient in every surfer’s life.
3,304 ratings — Les tontons surfeurs. 685 ratings — Readers come in all ages, no? 0 people liked it, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Hardcover), The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean (Hardcover), Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea (Paperback), Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave (ebook), Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast (Paperback), In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road (Paperback), Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman (Paperback), West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief (Hardcover), Liquid Comfort - A Surf Story (Paperback), The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing (Hardcover), Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board (Paperback), Chasing Forever Down (Drenaline Surf, #1), Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey (Paperback), Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing (Paperback), The Fear Project: What Our Most Primal Emotion Taught Me About Survival, Success, Surfing . Sebi the Surfin’ Spoon: Sebi Goes Surfing by Jesse and Whitney Hines. 5,280 ratings — Read 1 961 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. ice cream shop called Surfin’ Spoon in the Outer Banks? 513 ratings — All that water cascading around you sounds kind of brutal, kind of dangerous, but time has stopped, so all you do is try to hang on and hope that nature, the ocean, treats you well. Not even a little bit.
Yeah, the GOAT makes the list. published 2013, avg rating 3.71 — Lists are re-scored approximately every 5 minutes. I loved Shaun Tomson long before he wrote this book.